We have made it across the border from the Vall de Ferrera into Andorra. The walk was fantastic and we climbed to about 2,740m through water meadows, forests, over rocks, past floating ice in the lakes, snow fields and fording rivers. The weather was kind to us and we had perfect conditions.
The views were amazing so watch out for our photos soon!
This is my first time in Andorra. Beautiful mountains, shame about the towns. Its a pity what commercialism does. It´s the first time we have seen traffic jams for over 500kms! Good GR11 path markings though - and plenty of bridges across rivers which keeps our feet dry!
Tomorrow we head back across the border into Catalunya... hurrah.
Monday 30 June 2008
Tuesday 24 June 2008
Tuesday 24th June, La Guingueta
We are back on course and back on the GR11! We came back over to the south side of the Pyrenees and had a couple of days up in the Aiguestortes (´Twisted Waters´) National Park staying in the Refugi Amitges (a really good Pyrenean mountain refuge) surrounded by glacial lakes - some of which are still frozen - snow capped peaks, rocks and waterfalls.
Here is a photo to give you some idea of how beautiful this place is and makes all the hard work, bad weather and early mornings worthwhile! Fantastic place, good food and HOT SHOWERS. As it is quite a popular tourist site they even had BRIDGES over the rivers which is a bit of a novelty for us having dry boots. Luxury. As the mid day temperatures are hitting 30 degrees C the snow is melting fast (high river levels).
Our friends Manel and Maria came up for the weekend from Barcelona and have kindly returned with about a third of the baggage we were carrying that we did not need. Now my bag weighs about 10kgs... BIG ´THANK YOU´to Manel and Maria!!
Sunday 22 June 2008
Sunday 22nd June, Vihela, Vall d¨Aran
Due to snow (actually avalanches) we have made a slight detour to the Vall d Aran on the north side of the range (but still in Spain).
Yesterday we walked from Aneto pueblo up a valley only to find the remnants of an avalanche (ie snow mixed with rock and surrounded by scree) blocking our way. The snow was melting and the rocks rolling down... so again we had to retrace our steps.
There is still quite a lot of snow around above 2200m, with snow in gullies below this (most of which we can negotiate around). So yesterday we did 9 hours walking with an ascent of 1100m only to end up back in Ainso pueblo. Therefore we are having a bit of a break in Viehla.
However, the views are spectacular and the spring flowers amazing. In the past few days we have gone from torrential rain, mist, hail and cold temperatures to mid day temperatures of 30degrees C. In spring we have problems with snow but in summer it must be so hot to walk.
Anyway, on eastwards. We are now in Catalunya...
Yesterday we walked from Aneto pueblo up a valley only to find the remnants of an avalanche (ie snow mixed with rock and surrounded by scree) blocking our way. The snow was melting and the rocks rolling down... so again we had to retrace our steps.
There is still quite a lot of snow around above 2200m, with snow in gullies below this (most of which we can negotiate around). So yesterday we did 9 hours walking with an ascent of 1100m only to end up back in Ainso pueblo. Therefore we are having a bit of a break in Viehla.
However, the views are spectacular and the spring flowers amazing. In the past few days we have gone from torrential rain, mist, hail and cold temperatures to mid day temperatures of 30degrees C. In spring we have problems with snow but in summer it must be so hot to walk.
Anyway, on eastwards. We are now in Catalunya...
Wednesday 18 June 2008
Wednesday 18th June, Escalona, Aragon
Hello! Today is the first day since Elisondo that we have had access to the internet, so we can update you on our progress.
After three weeks on the path we finally have a very warm, sunny day! We have been up in the high mountains (up to about 2,500m) and there is still a lot of snow around and the weather has been very changable (with more than enough rain). We made it through the Ordessa canyon and up to the Goriz refugio overnight and then accross to the Collado de Anisclo. However, despite traversing quite a few tricky snowfields, fording rivers, climbing a few crags and getting hit by a heavy hail shower, we could not get past a large snow cornice on the top of the pass - so we retracked our steps and headed down the Anisclo canyon. The canyon is absolutely amazing - waterfalls and rapids and a very precipitous track along the cliff edge! This went on for quite a while and involved hanging on to steel chains above long, long drops to the river below. This was the easy part... then we had to climb over a few rock falls, damaged bridges, ford more streams that didnt have bridges (you get the idea). By this time it was getting dark and we were still in the canyon - we didnt fancy walking along precipitous cliffs with rockfalls in the dark so we set up camp on the only piece of flat ground between some large boulders and cooked some pasta and went to sleep. We were so wet, exhausted and tired that we all slept in the same tent to keep warm. Pictures will be posted asap!
The next day we were up early (as camping is not allowed in the National Park) and set off walking again... more canyons, landslides, waterfalls, water, mud, rocks etc, etc. for a few more kms until we reached Puyarruego - a lovely small hill top village which has a CAMPSITE!!! We quickly made ourselves at home in their outdoor restaurant - drying our boots and eating their menu del dia. We also found that they have BUNGALOWS so we booked ourselves in and did our LAUNDRY and lay down!
After three weeks on the path we finally have a very warm, sunny day! We have been up in the high mountains (up to about 2,500m) and there is still a lot of snow around and the weather has been very changable (with more than enough rain). We made it through the Ordessa canyon and up to the Goriz refugio overnight and then accross to the Collado de Anisclo. However, despite traversing quite a few tricky snowfields, fording rivers, climbing a few crags and getting hit by a heavy hail shower, we could not get past a large snow cornice on the top of the pass - so we retracked our steps and headed down the Anisclo canyon. The canyon is absolutely amazing - waterfalls and rapids and a very precipitous track along the cliff edge! This went on for quite a while and involved hanging on to steel chains above long, long drops to the river below. This was the easy part... then we had to climb over a few rock falls, damaged bridges, ford more streams that didnt have bridges (you get the idea). By this time it was getting dark and we were still in the canyon - we didnt fancy walking along precipitous cliffs with rockfalls in the dark so we set up camp on the only piece of flat ground between some large boulders and cooked some pasta and went to sleep. We were so wet, exhausted and tired that we all slept in the same tent to keep warm. Pictures will be posted asap!
The next day we were up early (as camping is not allowed in the National Park) and set off walking again... more canyons, landslides, waterfalls, water, mud, rocks etc, etc. for a few more kms until we reached Puyarruego - a lovely small hill top village which has a CAMPSITE!!! We quickly made ourselves at home in their outdoor restaurant - drying our boots and eating their menu del dia. We also found that they have BUNGALOWS so we booked ourselves in and did our LAUNDRY and lay down!
Thursday 5 June 2008
Ochagavia
Llamada desde Ochagavia:
Todo va bien. El tiempo no ayuda pero siguen adelante. No hay problemas físicos i parecen contentos. Espero que el tiempo mejore. Les espera la alta montaña. Me gustaría estar allí!
manel
(Haz clic en el enlace para ver donde se encuentran)
Call from Ochagavia:
Everything is OK. The weather does not help but they go ahead. There are no physical problems and they are happy. I hope the weather improves. The high mountains awaits. I would like to be there!
(Clik on the link to know where're they)
Manel
Todo va bien. El tiempo no ayuda pero siguen adelante. No hay problemas físicos i parecen contentos. Espero que el tiempo mejore. Les espera la alta montaña. Me gustaría estar allí!
manel
(Haz clic en el enlace para ver donde se encuentran)
Call from Ochagavia:
Everything is OK. The weather does not help but they go ahead. There are no physical problems and they are happy. I hope the weather improves. The high mountains awaits. I would like to be there!
(Clik on the link to know where're they)
Manel
Monday 2 June 2008
Monday 2nd June, Camping Urrobi, Burguette
Hello, we are still in Navarra. Today we only walked about 16km as yesterday we made it from Elizondo (202m) all the way to Collado de Adatun (1213m.
Saturday we decided to stay for a day in Elizondo (two nights in total)for three reasons:
1. We were absulutely shattered after walking 30km for two days in succession.
2. Elizondro is a really lovely, attractive and friendly place. Very Basque, interesting architecture, good food and laid back. So we found a good place to eat, had a few beers and I did some knitting in the local bar.
3. There was a weather warning not to go out. Good reason to stay put.
Disadvantages? It has rained every day so far, the rivers are high and there have been landslides in the mountains (which means everywhere around here).
Last night (Sunday) we camped at Collade de Atun which I think is the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean (I may be wrong). It was fun to wild camp for the first night but we were in mist and then rain. We got a camp fire going but I was really damp in my sleeping bag. But today has been great for walking through beech forested valleys and fording streams (no bridges here!)We passed through the Barranoc Odia valley which was amazingly beautiful - ferns, moss, flowers, salamanders and lots of water! Had lunch (with wine) in a little bar where one of their dogs ran off and ate the inner sole of my left hiking boot, which I thought was a bit of a disaster until the lady running the place came out with two new ones. Perhaps her dogs makes a habit of this...
Then more climbing to the top of another hill in glorious sunshine alongside cows (with bells round their necks) looking back over wooded valleys. Looked like a scene out of ´The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music´, then down again to where we are now. Fortunately have booked into a hostel where we have showered, washed clothes and hit the bar and now waiting for food. Mmm, Spanish food! I love it.
Saturday we decided to stay for a day in Elizondo (two nights in total)for three reasons:
1. We were absulutely shattered after walking 30km for two days in succession.
2. Elizondro is a really lovely, attractive and friendly place. Very Basque, interesting architecture, good food and laid back. So we found a good place to eat, had a few beers and I did some knitting in the local bar.
3. There was a weather warning not to go out. Good reason to stay put.
Disadvantages? It has rained every day so far, the rivers are high and there have been landslides in the mountains (which means everywhere around here).
Last night (Sunday) we camped at Collade de Atun which I think is the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean (I may be wrong). It was fun to wild camp for the first night but we were in mist and then rain. We got a camp fire going but I was really damp in my sleeping bag. But today has been great for walking through beech forested valleys and fording streams (no bridges here!)We passed through the Barranoc Odia valley which was amazingly beautiful - ferns, moss, flowers, salamanders and lots of water! Had lunch (with wine) in a little bar where one of their dogs ran off and ate the inner sole of my left hiking boot, which I thought was a bit of a disaster until the lady running the place came out with two new ones. Perhaps her dogs makes a habit of this...
Then more climbing to the top of another hill in glorious sunshine alongside cows (with bells round their necks) looking back over wooded valleys. Looked like a scene out of ´The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music´, then down again to where we are now. Fortunately have booked into a hostel where we have showered, washed clothes and hit the bar and now waiting for food. Mmm, Spanish food! I love it.
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